Alpine butterfly knot (butterfly loop)

Characteristics and strengths

This knot is compact, symmetrical and distributes load across three rope segments at the loop, which helps stabilize the knot under multidirectional pull. It resists sliding along the standing rope, does not readily capsize, and is usually straightforward to loosen after being loaded. The knot also serves to isolate a damaged portion of rope by placing the weakened section inside the loop.

Common uses

• Creating an attachment point for carabiners or hardware mid-rope.
• Forming fixed loops for equalizing loads in rigging.
• Isolating a damaged or worn section of rope so it is not loaded.
• Applications in climbing, alpine travel, rescue, arboriculture and utility work.

How it differs from other loops

Compared with a figure-eight on a bight or a bowline, the alpine butterfly is especially suited for midline use and multidirectional loading. It is generally considered more secure for a central loop and less likely to deform under opposing forces than many simple hitches or looping methods.

Practical notes

Tying methods vary (twisting a bight into turns or using a three-turn method), but the goal is the same: a neat, stable central loop. As with any knot, it reduces the rope's strength to an extent and should be inspected and tested in context. Training and practice are recommended before relying on it in critical situations.