Polonaise (historic women's gown and overskirt style)

Typical characteristics

Key elements of a polonaise include a close-fitting bodice attached to an overskirt, adjustable drawstrings or internal loops that create swags and poufs, and visible petticoats beneath the draped outer layer. Sleeves and necklines varied with period and occasion, and fabrics ranged from silks and brocades for formal wear to printed cottons for informal or daytime versions. The effect is often three-dimensional, with controlled gathers that form rounded bulges at the back and sides.

Common construction features:

• Attached overskirt gathered or looped to expose the petticoat.
• Fitted waist and bodice, sometimes with stomacher or decorative fastenings.
• Use of drawstrings, tapes, or sewn loops to create the draped effect.

The style became fashionable in the late 18th century and returned in altered forms during the 19th century; Victorian dressmakers adapted the polonaise's draping for walking dresses and daywear, and later revivals referenced its pleating and asymmetrical drape.

Because the polonaise exposes the underskirt, it provided a chance to display patterned or contrasting fabrics and to mix textures. It occupies a distinct place among period garments such as the robe à la polonaise, the sack-back gown, and earlier mantua styles, each differing in how fabric is cut and where fullness is arranged. Today the polonaise is studied by costume historians and occasionally reproduced by reenactors and designers seeking the characteristic gathered overskirt look.