First ascent

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A first ascent is the first successful and documented ascent to reach the summit of a mountain (see also first ascent).

First ascents are remarkable in that sometimes years of preparation and thorough exploration of the area are necessary. In many cases, the first attempts to climb fail. Due to the lack of experience regarding weather and terrain, the risk is also much higher.

The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786 is today considered the birth of modern alpinism.

The photo camera quickly became the most important piece of evidence for the ascent. The summit photo is considered the indispensable sign of summit success. Objects left behind can also serve as evidence. For example, Hermann Buhl's ice axe, which was left behind at the summit of Nanga Parbat, was found by a Japanese expedition in 1999. Another possibility are witnesses.

Of historical significance is the first ascent of Mount Everest, the conquest of the "third pole". Here, there is still an ongoing discussion whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not already reach the summit in 1924. However, they did not return from this attempt. In 1999, the remains of George Mallory were discovered, but his camera was not.

In the context of first ascents, intrigue and boasting also occurred time and again. In 1906, for example, Frederick Cook claimed to have reached the summit of Denali. It was not until years later that photos taken by an expedition were able to prove that Cook at the time presented a picture of a lower peak, between 4000 and 5000 metres above sea level, as proof.

See also

  • list of first ascents
  • Highest unclimbed mountains

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