Breithorn

The Breithorn is a five-peaked, heavily glaciated mountain ridge running from west to east in the Valais Alps. The highest point of the ridge and at the same time the easiest four-thousand-metre peak in the Alps to climb is the west peak (main peak, Breithorn Occidentale, 4164 m above sea level). Further east follow the middle summit (4159 m a.s.l.) and the Breithorn twins, consisting of the east summit (west twin, 4139 m a.s.l.) and the gendarme (east twin 4106 m a.s.l.). The Breithorn ridge ends in the east with the Schwarzfluh (4075 m a.s.l. ).

Between Klein Matterhorn and Breithorn is the Breithorn Pass (3814 m a.s.l. ) and the Breithorn Plateau (3795 m a.s.l. ), which extends over the highest ski slope in Europe towards Gobba di Rollin (French: Dos de Rollin, 3899 m a.s.l. ). Between the western and central summits is the saddle (4076 m a.s.l.), between the central and eastern summits is the Selle (4022 m a.s.l.) and the Black Gate (Porta Nera, 3734 m a.s.l.) between Roccia Nera and Pollux. In addition, the Rossi e Volante CAI bivouac (3787 m a.s.l.) is located on the Roccia Nera. The main Alpine ridge and the border between Valais and the Autonomous Region of Valle d'Aosta run over the Breithorn.

The first ascent was made in 1813 by Henry Maynard, Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean Gras, Jean-Baptiste Hérin and Jean-Jacques Hérin.

Because of the cable car leading up to the 3882 m high Klein Matterhorn, the technically less demanding main summit is frequently climbed. The normal route leads from the south-southwest, first over the firn of the Breithorn plateau and later up a 35-degree slope. The ascent takes between one and a half and three hours. The descent on skis or snowboard from the main summit is easy for experienced skiers. Despite the good access, this is a high-alpine tour that requires the appropriate equipment and experience.

As an alternative, the west summit can also be climbed from the east via a narrow ridge, which is a fairly easy traverse of the highest peak of the Breithorn. The starting point of the ridge is the notch between the west and middle summits at the saddle (Sella 4076 m a.s.l.), from where one can also climb the middle summit via the further course of the ridge. From the west the ridge of the Breithorn is completely covered with firn up to the middle summit, further to the east it is combined with rock. The tour from the east to the west summit is also called half Breithorn traverse with climbing up to IV difficulty.

Zermatt mountain guides call alpinists "Breithoru-Liit" (Breithorn people), who can only be led to the Breithorn with a clear conscience.