Fez and Tarboosh: History, Styles, and Cultural Significance

Forms and materials

Historically there are two widely recognized shapes:

• a tapered cone that ends in a flattened top — typically produced from red felt; and
• a short, straight-sided cylinder which can be made from woven fabrics such as kilim or other textiles.

Both types are commonly worn without a brim and are usually ornamented with a hanging tassel. Variations in size, color and trim reflect regional traditions and social context.

History and cultural role

The modern appearance and widespread use of the tarboosh and the fez are closely linked to developments during the Ottoman era, when these headpieces became common among civil and military officials across Ottoman domains. The word “fez” itself likely derives from the Moroccan city of Fez, where similar headwear was produced and traded.

In the 20th century the fez lost status in some countries as part of modernization and dress-reform movements; in others it remained a symbol of identity and continuity. Today it survives mainly in ceremonial, religious and traditional contexts, as well as in historical costume and select military or fraternal uniforms.