Cyprus

Location

Cyprus is located in the northeast of the Levantine Sea. The distance to the south coast of Turkey is about 68 km, to the west coast of Syria about 95 km, to the north coast of Egypt about 325 km, to the east coast of the Greek island Rhodes about 394 km and to the Greek mainland about 830 km.

Cyprus lies on the Anatolian Plate and is geographically counted as part of Asia. From the southern edge of Cyprus to Rhodes extends the Cyprus arc as a plate boundary between the Anatolian and the African plate.

Size and shape

With an area of about 9251 km² Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily and Sardinia (west-east extension about 230 km, north-south extension about 95 km). Cyprus' coasts are altogether about 671 km long.

Five distinctive capes or peninsulas - Greek Ακρωτήρια Akrotíria - characterize the shape of the island. Starting at the northeastern tip of the island, these are (clockwise):

• in the northeast at the tip of the Karpas peninsula: Cape Apostolos Andreas ('Cape of Apostle Andrew') - Greek Ακρωτήριο Αποστόλου Ανδρέα Akrotírio Apostólou Andréa, Turkish Zafer Burnu 'Cape of Victory'.
• in the southeast: Cape Greko ('Greek Cape') - Greek Κάβο Γκρέκο Kávo Gréko, Turkish Greco Burnu; also Greek Πηδάλια Pidália, German 'die Steuerruder'.
• in the south at the tips of the Akrotiri peninsula:
• in the east Cape Gata ('Cat Cape') - Greek Κάβο Γάτα Kávo Gáta, Turkish Doğan Burnu 'hawk's beak'.
• in the west Cape Zevgari - Greek Ακροτήριο Ζευγάρι Akrotírio Zevgári, Turkish İkiz Burnu
• in the west at the tip of the Akamas peninsula: Cape Akamas - Greek Ακρωτήριο Ακάμας Akrotírio Akámas, Turkish Arnavut Burnu.
• in the middle of the north coast at the western foothills of Pentadaktylos: Cape Kormakitis - Greek Ακροτήριο Κορμακίτη Akrotírio Kormakíti, Turkish Koruçam Burnu.

Landscapes

Along the northeastern coast is the rugged mountain range of Pentadaktylos (Beşparmak) with steep slopes towards the coast and Kyparissovouno (1024 m) as the highest peak. The volcanic, forested Troodos Mountains inland include Mount Olympos (1952 m), the highest mountain in Cyprus. The Troodos Mountains were formed by the overthrust of oceanic crust (see also: ophiolite), with associated chrome and asbestos deposits. Between the two mountains stretches the fertile plain of Mesaoria (Μεσαορία 'between the mountains') with the centre Nicosia.

The coast consists of extensive sandy and pebbly beaches as well as steeply sloping rocky coasts with small bays. The two largest lakes are located near the coast (at Akrotiri and Larnaka) and are salt lakes. There are no natural freshwater lakes in Cyprus.

Climate

Cyprus has a Mediterranean climate with a distinctly continental character. Temperatures are higher than in the northern Mediterranean and hot desert winds often blow across the sea from the Levantine coast. The Mediterranean Sea around Cyprus has the highest water temperatures in the entire region. In February it reaches about 17 °C, in August about 28 °C.

From May to October it is dry and sometimes very hot, especially inland. Nicosia has an average maximum temperature of 37 °C in July and August, which is only 2 °C below the temperature in Dubai and 8 °C warmer than in Mallorca. In extreme cases, the thermometer in the centre of the island rises to 47 °C at the height of summer. On the coasts during the summer it is usually 30 to 35 °C warm during the day, at night it cools down to 20 to 23 °C. The west of the island around the city of Paphos is 2 to 4 °C cooler than the east.

Rain falls mainly from November to April. In winter, temperatures range between 15 °C and 20 °C during the day, occasionally above, rarely below. Above 1500 m there can be snow, frost is more frequent in the lowlands, but practically impossible on the coast.

Cyprus is located in the biodiversity hotspot of the Mediterranean region and a number of endemic species occur on the island.

Vegetation and land use

Cyprus is the most densely wooded island in the entire Mediterranean. Already in ancient times, Cyprus was considered the most fertile of the islands; it was particularly known for good wine and high-quality olive oil and was able to cover its own needs for grain.

According to Eratosthenes, it was formerly densely forested, even the plains were covered with forest and thus could not be used for agriculture. Parts of the forests were cleared for mining in order to obtain fuel for the smelting of silver and copper. Further timber was needed for shipbuilding after warships secured trade. Anyone could clear the forest and cultivate the land thus obtained tax-free.

In the Troodos - the "Black Forest" of Cyprus - grow the endemic Alder-leaved Oak and Cyprus Cedar. The black pine (in the eastern subspecies pallasiana) and Phoenician juniper are involved in the forest structure. However, here as on the rest of the island, Calabrian pine is the most common forest tree, accounting for about 90% of the total forest area. On the shallow slopes of the Troodos, the natural flora has been largely replaced by apple, pear, peach, almond and walnut trees, as well as vineyards. The rest of the island is dominated by, mostly planted, cypresses, olive groves and carob trees.

No less than 1800 flowering plants are known. Spring is characterized by anemones, daffodils, gladioli, irises, asphodel, tulips and corn poppies. Many species of orchids occur. Some of them are endemic. With the first autumn rains, grape hyacinths and the endemic Cypriot cyclamen, among others, sprout. Originally from Brazil, the widely cultivated bougainvillea blooms all year round.

Only about 18.5% of the island (mainly in the Troodos and Pentadaktylos) is still covered by forest. Human intervention, goat grazing and frequent forest fires have reduced the forest cover. Efforts are being made to increase the forest cover through replanting. Survival of newly planted trees is hampered by lack of water. Some alien species have been introduced (various species of acacia and eucalyptus).

Fauna

Sea turtles lay their eggs on the coasts of the Akamas and Karpas peninsulas and of Varosha near Famagusta; in order to enable their unhindered reproduction, the Cypriot government adopted a protection programme: the beaches are closed to humans for the duration of the egg-laying period.

In addition to the fish species common in the Mediterranean, the coastal waters in the east of the island are also home to fish that entered the Mediterranean from the Red Sea through the Suez Canal, such as flutefish (Fistulariidae) and rabbitfish (Siganidae).

The island is also home to several species of reptiles, including several lizards, of which the Hardun is the largest and most conspicuous species, and snakes such as the venomous Levant viper.

The bird life of Cyprus includes 340 species. The island is a transit area for many migratory birds: 46 species spend the whole year in Cyprus, 27 of the migratory species nest on the island. The forests of Troodos and the high altitudes of Pentadaktylos are the areas richest in birds: Chaffinches, spruce crossbills, chukar grouse, nightingales and silky warblers, among others, are found here. Collared francolin, jay cuckoo, Eleonora's hawk, Pallid harrier and pond sandpiper are sought-after species on "birding tours". Cyprus warbler and Cyprus wheatear are Cypriot endemics. Flamingos can be seen in winter in the salt lake near Larnaca.

In 2004, the Cyprus mouse (Mus cypriacus) was discovered, a species of mouse that has lived in Cyprus for at least 10,000 years. It has a larger head, ears, eyes and teeth than any other mouse species known to date.

Fossils and archaeological finds prove that dwarf hippopotami and dwarf elephants lived on Cyprus until the post-glacial period, having already died out in the Neolithic period. Pigs, cattle, goats, fallow deer and wild sheep as well as foxes and wild cats were brought by the first farmers. The sheep, known as Cyprus mouflon, ran wild and still live in the Troodos and on the Akamas peninsula. The Cyprus mouflon were almost exterminated in the course of the 20th century, the population could be secured in the meantime by protective measures. The cattle, which were also introduced, disappeared after a relatively short time and were only reintroduced in the late Neolithic.

Nature Conservation

The Republic of Cyprus, as part of the EU, is required to designate Natura 2000 protected areas and has now designated FFH areas. As a result of structural support programmes, the EU promoted preparatory work for the designation of Natura 2000 sites in the Republic of Northern Cyprus.

BirdLife Cyprus looks after a number of areas in the south of the island, is strongly committed against bird hunting and is working on the designation of FFH areas.